Understanding Silver Jewelry Treatments - Plating

I've heard some comments at shows about my jewelry 'not being real silver' because it isn't as bright or shiny as the silver jewelry people see in places like Macys or mall jewelry stores. I understand that this is an education issue and if people are willing, i try to take the time to explain why my jewelry looks different (other than because i make it by hand and it's not mass produced) but i have discovered that even people who make jewelry and/or are very familiar with silver may not know the industry practices that make store silver look different.

If you've ever bought (or looked at buying) platinum jewelry, they should have disclosed that platinum is often rhodium plated for brightness (so is almost all white gold). Many jewelry stores will offer lifetime re-plating for their platinum and white gold pieces as an add-on because it really does affect the look of the piece. Rhodium is a metal from the platinum group and has a lovely bright white color that has a high light reflectivity, therefore appears 'more shiny'.

Incidentally, it is also used to plate sterling silver as the rhodium prevents tarnish. Very few jewelry stores could afford to carry sterling silver jewelry, especially en masse, if they had to polish it all the time. Some of the mid-range silver jewelry, think bridge collections like the $30 rings at Kohls, are coated with a hard, scratch resistant jewelry lacquer that is much less expensive than rhodium plating. Just like the plating, the lacquer will eventually wear off, especially if you wear your jewelry often).

This is why some people think that 'real silver' doesn't tarnish...

The problem with this, and there not being full disclosure on the treatments to consumers, is there is a false expectation that is harmful to the perception of not just our untreated jewelry, but jewelry that may wear in an unexpected way or look odd as it wears.
Further more, because the rhodium plating requires nickel to adhere to silver, once the very thin (.2 to .5 microns) rhodium wears off, the nickel plating comes in contact with the wearer's skin . Nickel allergies can range from a barely noticeable itch to blisters that resemble 3rd degree burns. So, some people (often erroneously) think they can't wear silver because they have had this reaction. The nickel content is also why some people can't wear white gold- the common alloy contains up to 10% nickel to create the white color. (some new alloys use palladium + silver, platinum or manganese)

So, to sum it up, if you have the opportunity to educate your clients (and students, if you teach) please do!