So, with the popularity of Bill Fretz's PrecisionSmith hammers, it was only a matter of time before the knock-offs arrived. After all, for the growing population of weekend jewelers, $45 or more on a single hammer that they may not use frequently is understandably hard to swallow.
Forming and fabrication are currently the darlings of the hobby jewelry making world, as evidenced by the plethora of new tools, books and videos available. This is a good thing! It means more toys for me to try out and give recommendations on :) Which is what i'm going to do here, in what will hopefully become a regular feature for me- Tool Corner. I have the ability to order ones of tools, give them a go and then, if they're great, i'll carry them in the shop.. if they're not so hot, then i can let people know where better to spend their money.
Back to the hammers- everyone seems to have their version of the Fretz PrecisionSmith hammers now- and it is important to note that these hammers are the same size as the smallest of the Fretz hammers. The SilverSmith line has not yet been replicated. EuroTool, BeadSmith, Contenti and even Wubbers have their own take on these hammers. I have taken the EuroTool and BeadSmith hammers for a test drive. (Note- I do own several of the precioussss, i mean Fretz hammers, so i am comparing these to the real deal)
The EuroTool hammers (Mini Trustrike) have a darker wood handle than the BeadSmith, so they are visually a closer match to the Fretz (the Contenti are even closer, as they have Rosewood handles, just like the Fretz). The heads are highly polished and look very nice. they're secured to the hardwood handles with a pin on the side opposite the EuroTool logo. I took the Embossing Hammer (face 65mm) for a test drive and loved the feel of it in my hand. It's not quite as light as the Fretz- the handle is a little thicker and a touch longer. At $24.99 retail per hammer, it's a considerable price difference for minimal difference in feel and performance- i will have to see how it holds up over time. There is also a 7 hammer set with a stand that retails for $129.99-149.99, depending on the site. I am waiting on the texturing hammer to arrive so i can compare the quality of the texture faces to the Fretz (the raw silk is my absolute favorite texture and i use the Fretz whenever i can for it!) That they are called the Mini Trustrike makes me think that the standard Trustrikes are in the works.
The BeadSmith hammers, just known as Small hammers have a light wood handle that is longer and not as thin as the Fretz hammers and made of a lesser quality wood. Of the 7 Beadsmith hammers, only a few have handles that are the same length or shape. It sits in the hand slightly different from the EuroTool hammers as well. The head is coated in black and polished on the faces. It is also pinned to the handle and a few of the hammers display a little overrun of glue. At $18.99 retail, they are less expensive than the EuroTool, but they also feel cheaper.
Wednesday, November 19, 2014
Understanding Silver Jewelry Treatments - Plating
I've heard some comments at shows about my jewelry 'not being real silver' because it isn't as bright or shiny as the silver jewelry people see in places like Macys or mall jewelry stores. I understand that this is an education issue and if people are willing, i try to take the time to explain why my jewelry looks different (other than because i make it by hand and it's not mass produced) but i have discovered that even people who make jewelry and/or are very familiar with silver may not know the industry practices that make store silver look different.
If you've ever bought (or looked at buying) platinum jewelry, they should have disclosed that platinum is often rhodium plated for brightness (so is almost all white gold). Many jewelry stores will offer lifetime re-plating for their platinum and white gold pieces as an add-on because it really does affect the look of the piece. Rhodium is a metal from the platinum group and has a lovely bright white color that has a high light reflectivity, therefore appears 'more shiny'.
Incidentally, it is also used to plate sterling silver as the rhodium prevents tarnish. Very few jewelry stores could afford to carry sterling silver jewelry, especially en masse, if they had to polish it all the time. Some of the mid-range silver jewelry, think bridge collections like the $30 rings at Kohls, are coated with a hard, scratch resistant jewelry lacquer that is much less expensive than rhodium plating. Just like the plating, the lacquer will eventually wear off, especially if you wear your jewelry often).
This is why some people think that 'real silver' doesn't tarnish...
The problem with this, and there not being full disclosure on the treatments to consumers, is there is a false expectation that is harmful to the perception of not just our untreated jewelry, but jewelry that may wear in an unexpected way or look odd as it wears.
Further more, because the rhodium plating requires nickel to adhere to silver, once the very thin (.2 to .5 microns) rhodium wears off, the nickel plating comes in contact with the wearer's skin . Nickel allergies can range from a barely noticeable itch to blisters that resemble 3rd degree burns. So, some people (often erroneously) think they can't wear silver because they have had this reaction. The nickel content is also why some people can't wear white gold- the common alloy contains up to 10% nickel to create the white color. (some new alloys use palladium + silver, platinum or manganese)
So, to sum it up, if you have the opportunity to educate your clients (and students, if you teach) please do!
If you've ever bought (or looked at buying) platinum jewelry, they should have disclosed that platinum is often rhodium plated for brightness (so is almost all white gold). Many jewelry stores will offer lifetime re-plating for their platinum and white gold pieces as an add-on because it really does affect the look of the piece. Rhodium is a metal from the platinum group and has a lovely bright white color that has a high light reflectivity, therefore appears 'more shiny'.
Incidentally, it is also used to plate sterling silver as the rhodium prevents tarnish. Very few jewelry stores could afford to carry sterling silver jewelry, especially en masse, if they had to polish it all the time. Some of the mid-range silver jewelry, think bridge collections like the $30 rings at Kohls, are coated with a hard, scratch resistant jewelry lacquer that is much less expensive than rhodium plating. Just like the plating, the lacquer will eventually wear off, especially if you wear your jewelry often).
This is why some people think that 'real silver' doesn't tarnish...
The problem with this, and there not being full disclosure on the treatments to consumers, is there is a false expectation that is harmful to the perception of not just our untreated jewelry, but jewelry that may wear in an unexpected way or look odd as it wears.
Further more, because the rhodium plating requires nickel to adhere to silver, once the very thin (.2 to .5 microns) rhodium wears off, the nickel plating comes in contact with the wearer's skin . Nickel allergies can range from a barely noticeable itch to blisters that resemble 3rd degree burns. So, some people (often erroneously) think they can't wear silver because they have had this reaction. The nickel content is also why some people can't wear white gold- the common alloy contains up to 10% nickel to create the white color. (some new alloys use palladium + silver, platinum or manganese)
So, to sum it up, if you have the opportunity to educate your clients (and students, if you teach) please do!
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